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Old 09-08-2017, 07:32 AM   #1
grimstock
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Default Rainwater Harvesting

For rainwater harvesting, and doing it cheaply, I can recommend the Harcostar diverter for downpipes which can be cut to suit round or square pipes of popular size. It works very efficiently.
Alternatively, divert the guttering. You may require attachment to a downpipe no lower than around 2.5 metres from the ground for successful installation of this system.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Harcostar-H...star+rain+trap
These guidelines are intended for a standalone permanent off-grid survival system using natural distilled water (rainwater) to provide a high-quality end result, and are not intended for tap water.
For filtration and removal of toxic chemicals and heavy metals, use AC pellets (activated carbon) filter. No need to buy expensive cartridges, Stay off the grid and make your own. For good bacteria growth in the tanks and filters use ceramic bio rings. These and the activated carbon are used for fish tanks and are not expensive.(Do not use the plastic bio balls) use only ceramic. Do not use the carbon with deoderant - only the pure AC. Do not use zeolite.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...llets&_sacat=0
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...rings&_sacat=0

Note that the water tank will become exceptionally heavy when full, and should therefore be on solid ground, raised blocks(not plastic) at a sufficient height to allow drawing of water. When fitting taps or connectors to the tank, use the supplied rubber seal on the inside of the tank. Make sure everything is right before use, as you will have to lose all the saved water to repair or amend. If connecting several tanks together, make the connections on the lower part of the tanks and not at the top. This will give unity throughout the system. A good point to use would be at or just below tap height. If using more than one tank, fit stopcock valves on the connecting pipes to enable isolation of the one being serviced to prevent losing all your water.
Most important: fit the tap no lower than one third of the height of the tank to protect the bacteria and nutrients, and to ensure any large-scale loss of fullerenes does not occur - That is if the tank is one and a hafl metres high, fit the tap no lower than 0.5 metres from the bottom.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...+butt&_sacat=0
Use a particle filter to remove rubbish and sludge prior to the water entering the system. These are available on the German ebay site and are a 5 inch filter with 1"bsp connectors with washable filters. They are sometimes also available in lidl for around £8. Personally, I would recommend at least two connected in series as a starting point. These will not restrict the flow, although you may install finer filtering if you wish. Any particle filters will do the job. Regularly clean the guttering to prevent early blockage of the particle filters.
https://www.amazon.de/Einhell-417380...partikelfilter

As the system will be gravity-fed, do not use reverse osmosis filters - these will stop the flow, and are only for pressurised systems. Do not use "nano" plastic rings.

If the AC filter appears to be getting dirty (it should not),then add more particle filters to the system. I would certainly recommend two particle filters connected in series to begin with. They will always reqiire regular cleaning.,The filter box should ideally remain clean inside all the time, maybe a little bit of algae and bacteria, but not much else.
For water tanks, preferably purchase once used orange juice transporter tanks, (do not use tanks used for olives, as they will taint the water) much cheaper than new, and foodsafe, and come in many sizes up to several thousand litres. Avoid transparent or opaque (or IBC) tanks as these will require regular replacement due to algae growth if using in sunlight, although they can be painted to avoid this. For filter boxes to take the water before running off to the tank, do not buy new, use a new plastic toolbox with an upper tray. Fit tank connectors onto the lid and half way (or more) up the side for inlet and outlet, and drill a few holes in the sides of the upper tray so it will not overflow. If it has a hole in the middle, drill the holes there. Obviously, the deeper the water levels in both the tray and the sump, the better the filtering will be. Ensure tank and toolbox plastics are foodsafe by checking the material used here:
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/whi...-are-safe.html
http://modernsurvivalblog.com/preps/...ood-and-drink/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...+tray&_sacat=0

Use both the upper tray and the lower box for filtration, and this should not require filter replacement for several years, and then , just change the AC pellets, keep the ceramic bio rings (you can clean them first if you wish) and recharge with new carbon.
The toolbox will now provide a streaming filter on the upper tray, before the water drops down into a sump filter before being fed to the water tank. You may have to cover the toolbox to prevent degeneration from sunlight depending on the plastic used.
The tank should never require servicing or cleansing. let the bacteria grow. Keep some bio rings in the tank. The tank (and filter(s)) must be able to breathe! A very fine mesh media bag may be put over breathers to prevent insect penetration.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...s&_sacat=46310
After around two weeks, the water will start to be noticeably superior to anything sold in the shops.

To neutralise radioactive contaminated rainwater, add on a similar filtration system with a maifan filter, following the AC filter. This will remove any heavy metal ions from the water not picked up by the AC filter. In addition it will, like the shungite, release only highly beneficial elements into the water at the same time. Fullerenes, when present, will also detect and capture/ transform radioactive gases in the water, but it is a little unclear as to the protection from radioactive gases contained in rain water by the AC and Maifan filters, so I hope to have a quick-fix intermediate remedy for this in the near future, in order to remove any chance of this gas surviving the above system, and to doubly-ensure removal occurs, prior to the presence of fullerenes.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Filters/4...40&_nkw=maifan

To provide hydrogen water add some soot from a pure coal fire to the tank (very little is needed), and wait for several freeze-ups to occur, then wait for the tank to thaw. The water will become charged with additional oxygen, and bubbles like champagne when activated. (This can take a few years)
To add all the healthy minerals you could possible need to the water, and removal of any other harmful poison, place natural classical shungite chips and dust into the tank (do not wash the dust off).
Other additions, such as you may require (salts or bicarbonates, etc.) may be added via the filter box.

Only when fullerenes are present will the water be additionally self-cleansing and act as healing water (hydrogen water). Fullerenes can be released into the water from soot or shungite. Activation comes with (natural) freezing.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fullerene
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To render outdoor pond freshwater safe, use oxygenating plants, and most importantly, duckweed, which can also be harvested as greens in hot sunny weather. keep the duckweed at approximately 40 to 60 per cent coverage all the time if possible. You may also use any of the bio media mentioned above, should you feel the need. To reduce algae growth, float some barley straw logs in the pond. they will need either water flow or wind to work. If the algae is not troublesome - just a small amount does no harm. It is a sign of good quality water. The logs should last between 6 weeks and 6 months, as it is only when they rot they block the algae growth. Remove these when they are visibly rotten, as this will then be detrimental to water quality.

Last edited by grimstock; 10-08-2017 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 10-08-2017, 11:16 AM   #2
grimstock
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So the whole set-up should be with the flow of water as following, with at the very least a gentle decline, or gradient, from the diverter - ball valve - particle filter(s) - main AC filter box - supplemental filter box if fitted (maifan goes here) - water tank(s) - overflow/breather pipe (and earthing cable). The position of the water tanks or filter boxes is not critical. They may be a distance away from the source of water, as long as the gradient continues with the plumbing ( - which can be of any type you feel more suited to the job, Since cold waste water is being channeled, cold waste plastic piping is also ideal for this job. Flexible tubes or speedfit is also ideal).
A standard outdoor brass water tap should provide years of service, although any tap should do the job. Multiple tanks will require breather pipes on each.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bulk-Hardwa...rass+water+tap

The more gentle the slope on the piping is, the better filtering will occur due to the slower flow. If flow is insufficient, but the slope cannot be any steeper, increase the diameter of the piping where water is backing-up to increase pressure to the system at that point.
Be aware of any air locks that may occur (this may sometimes happen where water has to climb upwards). Most of the time,these will self-bleed when water is flowing. With breathers on the tank and filter box, this should not occur. If too troublesome fit a breather at the highest point.

It is also advisable to fit an overflow on the tank breather, and a ball valve shut off point by the diverter, so that the particle filters and whole system can be shut down for maintenance or when full in order to conserve nutrients and water quality.

Congratulations! You should now have a permanent and private supply of high quality water. Enjoy! You now have the number one most important commodity for survival in case of grid failure.
Once the quality is sufficient. be sure to barrel some as back-up, in case of leakage, repairs, freeze or drought. An earthing cable connected to a conducting ground peg, is also recommended in order to assist electrolytes in the water.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hyfive-Heav...ords=tent+pegs
If you have used brass tank connectors, or brass tap, this will be a sufficient contact point for the cable.

Shungite Influence on Water Chemistry
http://www.acs.omnibooksonline.com/d...1997_ii118.pdf

The Mystery of Water
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5NJaUlohT8

Water Memory
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8VyUsVOic0

The Truth about Water
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_6UN_um92Y

Recycled plastic containers
http://www.dvcontainers.co.uk/category.asp?catID=4

Last edited by grimstock; 11-08-2017 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:29 PM   #3
grimstock
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Quantities: estimates based on average tank size of between 200 and 250 litres capacity, (or multiples thereof).

- For the AC Filter (16" + toolbox) around 5kg + activated carbon should suffice several years under normal conditions- shallow layer in tray, and deeper one in lower box(sump).
- For Maifan Filter (16"+ toolbox) around 5kg + maifan should last around 10 years under normal conditions.
- For ceramic bio rings 1kg + will give a surface area of dozens of football pitches per tank.
- For box filters, a handful of ceramic rings in each is more than enough.
- Shungite - add a minimum of around 2kg + per tank for a reasonable effect.
Shungite Natural Water Activator
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shungite-Na...shungite+water

The tubing from the shown diverter will become blocked faster than anything else. For ease of removal, fit this onto a 3/4"bsp male thread adaptor (it can just be twisted on by hand) suitable for fastening by hand into the particle filter or ball valve for easy removal and refitting. The diverter may be removed,cleaned and refitted in a couple of minutes providing the downpipe can be eased downwards sufficiently to release it. The particle filter does not require tools to take apart, clean and refit. It can be tightened by hand with a little effort. Over tightening will damage the seals.
A toothbrush may be used to clean the mesh in the filter.

The tank should not require cleaning nor maintenance once in use. Keep the lid fastened tight.

Last edited by grimstock; 12-08-2017 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:18 AM   #4
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If you do not need potable water from day one, then the traditional method may be used - without filter boxes - necessitating boiling of the water prior to consumption until such time as fullerenes become present in the tank. This can take a few years - and will not offer the protection from radioactive or other elements until that time comes.. (They did not have such problems in those days). Bacteria forming in the tank will give protection from water-borne fungal or bacterial infections, but will take an absolute minimum of 6 months to get underway at very basic levels on a plastic surface, and this can be fast-tracked by using ceramic bio rings in the tank, offering growth of bacteria in just a few weeks. This will act similarly to an immune system, and the eventual sparkling crystal appearance of the water will indicate the system is active. If unsure, keep boiling the water first. Keep the tap one third of the height from the ground, and the bottom of the tank will have any deposited and unwanted water-borne particles left there. If you ever have to clean the tank out, try to save as much bacteria as possible, don't wash it off. Just dump the sediment out. Keep the bacteria wet at all times. On plastic, the bacterial growth deposits will appear as a fine almost transparent black film coating.

To assist with fullerene additions to the water, the tank collection system should be preferably at times in the vicinity of an open flaming fire (coal or wood) , but never from a slow combustion stove as the soot given off will be highly toxic and extremely acidic. From a normal chimney from an open fire onto a water collection roof is ideal.

Amazing Discoveries on the Miracles of Water
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=634b8QhHTwk

Last edited by grimstock; 12-08-2017 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 12-08-2017, 04:35 PM   #5
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When using a toolbox as a filter, with regard to the inner tray. If the sides of the central hole in the tray are lower than the external sides of the tray, then obviously there is no need to drill holes in it. If this is not the case, then just make around four x 12mm holes at the sides of the centre, but allowing for as much depth as possible before water can reach them.

As for the descent of gradient to be used for any plumbing, bear in mind a gradient of around 1 in 3 will probably give you overflows on the whole system during heavy rain, and render the filters ineffective; but too gentle a slope may leave you short of water during a drought, so a happy medium has to be settled for in this respect. The rain diverter will automatically drop excess back to the downpipe if the system by the downpipe is overloaded. The rest of the system may require attention until you are familiar with any weaknesses in it.

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Old 13-08-2017, 06:15 AM   #6
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Default Ponds

Use duckweed in ponds as a cleansing agent and purifier, and to remove all toxins, nitrates and harmful chemicals.

"Duckweed is an important high-protein food source for waterfowl and also is eaten by humans in some parts of Southeast Asia. As it contains more protein than soybeans, it is sometimes cited as a significant potential food source.[6] The tiny plants provide cover for fry of many aquatic species. The plants are used as shelter by pondwater species such as bullfrogs and fish such as bluegills. They also provide shade and, although frequently confused with them, can reduce certain light-generated growths of photoautotrophic algae.

The plants can provide nitrate removal, if cropped, and the duckweeds are important in the process of bioremediation because they grow rapidly, absorbing excess mineral nutrients, particularly nitrogen and phosphates. For these reasons, they are touted as water purifiers of untapped value.[7"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lemnoideae

Try to keep the duckweed pond coverage at around 40% to 60% if possible to provide efficient cleansing of the water without impeding too much of the sunlight. This figure may be increased a little in the winter when the duckweed will provide thermal protection for pond wildlife. Hair algae can sometimes survive if hanging onto the roots of the duckweed, and shall become obvious when harvesting to control the growth if present.

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Old 13-08-2017, 01:50 PM   #7
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Estimated Cost of the top of the page full system with both AC and Maifan dual filters using two x 225 litre tanks up and running is around between £230 and £270+ or so for the cheapest method of plumbing,(flexible tubing) plus the cost of Shungite if used. Obviously better plumbing systems will require more expenditure. Speedfit HDPE is expensive, but offers the chance to service a particular pipe and replace in a few seconds without tools.
However I would recommend perhaps the flexible tubing MDPE pushfit option for a new system, as it can then be easily modified to suit as required, and stay away from more expensive plumbing systems until you are satisfied with the layout, heights and gradients, etc. used. Though when using flexible pipe it will require support. PE-X pipe is also ideal for most situations.
Breeze blocks laid flat with timber layer on top can take all the weight to whatever height you require for supporting the tanks
I would also suggest plumbing around 1" diameter bore would be most adequate, and allow lots of space for self-bleeding of any trapped air.

USED Black IBC
http://www.dvcontainers.co.uk/product.asp?pid=36

New 1520 litre / 330 gallon Water Tank
http://shop.smithsofthedean.co.uk/ne...tank-751-p.asp
(These are brand new, very light, and can be handled by one person when empty, but £100 delivery charge levied)
http://shop.smithsofthedean.co.uk/tanks-32-c.asp

25mm MDPE Water Pipe (Medium density Polyethylene)
http://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/mdp...ipe-11699.html

MDPE Fittings 25mm
http://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/cat...ittings%2025mm

MDPE pipe | Join MDPE pipe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjIp8ImrHpk

Test your Water
http://www.kingbritish.co.uk/product...er-test-strips

Test ph Only
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/cn/Strips...er+test+strips

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Old 13-08-2017, 10:26 PM   #8
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If you add sea shells etc to your water storage tank the calcium carbonate in the shells removes heavy metals like lead, cadium etc.

I use the shells left over from eating mussels. They will dissolve over time so need a top up over the course of many years.
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Old 17-08-2017, 07:54 AM   #9
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Miracle Healing Water
http://drsircus.com/molecular-hydrog...-at-sanctuary/

The Miracle of Molecular Hydrogen
http://drsircus.com/molecular-hydrog...ular-hydrogen/
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Old 17-08-2017, 08:30 AM   #10
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If embarking upon a full gravity fed installation with filters, it must be understood that problems may arise in trying to connect the system together. Since there is no professional plumbing circuitry available for such an endeavour, it will be necessary to "marry" two or three separate systems into one. This however brings up further problems as different systems use different size and often opposite fittings. Also, keep the bore in mind if fittings are not to restrict the flow.
i.e. (for example) if using 1" inside diameter tubing, try not to fit a 1/2" ball valve, use a 1" (these can be found with "agricultural" fiitings, and are not "domestic".)
The key to this aspect is to retrofit the installation, not necessarily to the item to be connected, but to the incoming feed instead. Firstly, choose the manner of feed, in this case flexible hose, whichever kind you decide on. I would say that a maximum of a one inch internal diameter would give a fast fill up if droughts are to be expected, but with a possibly not-so-good filtering time involved, dependent on the gradient used. Next, locate a solid, preferably copper pipe onto which the flexible tube can be placed and fastened with jubilee clips. Next, obtain tank connectors - brass fittings are cheaper and more readily available, and will give a secure fitting for a lifetime if necessary. Do not mess around with plastic tank connectors, as they will either leak or break if tightened to prevent leakage. Use tank connectors with compression fittings to fit the copper pipe. These come with their own olives for placing over the pipes, and can be unfastened and refastened as many times as necessary. Use these on the tank(s) and filter boxes.
http://www.cityirrigation.co.uk/acatalog/pipesize.html
https://www.petersenproducts.com/category-s/1979.htm
http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.co.uk/p...SAAEgK9zPD_BwE

Tank(s) - feed at top of tank, connections between tanks on lower sections.
Filter boxes - Connector on lid of (toolbox)), and one on side, fairly high up, but not in contact with inner tray.
Tank connectors may also be used for breather holes at top of tank (also overflow) - These can be 22mm (or whatever size you wish) compression fittings, and insert pushfit plastic 90 degree stem elboiw of equal size, and the nylon bags over these, or whatever way you choose to do this. The lowest one of these can also be used for an overflow pipe if necessary.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plu...nnector/p28657
http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/john-gu...iABEgK5HvD_BwE
(Stem elbows do not require a pipe insert)

Also be careful when using cutting tools
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lo7l1QAe_es

Also I earlier mistakenly said a 3/4"bsp fits the one inch tubing on the given diverter. This is incorrect, my mistake, the thread that this will fit onto by hand is 22mm brass compression fitting thread.
For example if fitting directly to on of the Einhell filters, use a 1" bsp male to 22mm compression fitting, and discard the nut and olive from the 22mm side. No fastening is needed, it will just screw into the rubber., and leave it hand-tight for servicing/ cleaning tubing. It will also pulll off diverter for cleaning ( no fastening necessary.)

Last edited by grimstock; 17-08-2017 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 22-08-2017, 09:52 AM   #11
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Hydrogen Gas & Hydrogen Water

http://drsircus.com/water/hydrogen-g...59c5d50227d1ae
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Old 26-11-2017, 06:54 AM   #12
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The procedure involved with making your own Miracle Healing Water.

The following information is the culmination of years of research carried out over a period of 33 years, trials and errors arising from my accidental discovery of this amazing water in the mid 1980's - water that was later stolen from me and believed to have been thrown away as waste - and my attempts to understand and recreate this phenomenon. I hope the information is of some use.
I believe this information to be as entirely accurate as possible to the best of my knowledge.
Miracle healing water has an essential ingredient that not only purifies freshwater and springwater, but infuses that water with the most highly beneficial elements available, including hydrogen, whilst trapping and imprisoning anything detrimental to the health of any living organisms, including radioactive elements, particles and gases. Obviously it may only do so much, so exposure to highly contaminated water may render it full and therefore incapacitated.
For that reason it is essential that the source is as pure as possible (rainwater), and that the C60 (the important ingredient) is in sufficient quantity that when it is activated (turned on through NATURAL ionisation) it is then able to cope with whatever may come along. I must stress that the use of any machines in any part of the process appears not to work at all. It is C60 itself, and not the hydrogen by-product (although hydrogen is also exceptionally beneficial to health) that creates and regulates miracle healing water.

C60 can be obtained from soot - but only when coming from a FLAMING open pure natural coal fire or a flaming log fire (not using a coal derivative). Soot must not be used when coming from any other source. When in water, activation is through the freezing and thawing process 2x or 3x minimum. The water has to freeze solid NATURALLY and thaw NATURALLY. This will provide bubbling miracle healing water. You cannot use tap water for this process - only fresh or spring water.(only natural distilled water- not by machine either)
If drinking the end product, make sure you do NOT drink the soot, only the water with C60 molecules (where the bubbles originate)
If I find a quick way to activate C60, I shall post it in this thread. It may also possibly require a strike of lightning to succeed - (according to wiki, but I doubt that) - I shall update when possible.

C60 may only occur in nature - it cannot be produced - not possible I'm afraid. However the structure may be reproduced by nanotechnology mimicry, but not the properties. A structure cannot make decisions as C60 does. Formation of C60 at the moment takes several years, although there is a possible way of circumventing this "maybe". Activation is necessary by mother nature - it cannot be done by other means. It has to be "turned on". C60 may hold the key to all life forms that ever lived on the planet. It would appear that it therefore may hold (or have instantaneous access to) great knowledge. C60 through to C640 is the known existing range at the moment. One can only imagine the health benefits of ingesting lots of molecules that can hold, release and regulate up to 640 trace elements such as the body may require, whilst at the same time, locking up toxins and harmful elements to be disposed as waste. Each C60 molecule (as an example) may hold, release and regulate up to 60 nutritional trace elements that will vary for each molecule. No two will be the same. They are all contained in fullerenes which are highly armoured impenetrable large cages which can imprison and detain all toxins and elements harmful to life on earth. They can transform (using on-board elements) or dump as waste anything detained within the cage.
They appear to have sufficient knowledge of all living matter to decide what may or may not be harmful.
C60 in water appears to set off a never-ending chain reaction of beneficial infusion into that water - I shall upload some attachments about this when my permissions have been turned on for posting those.

C60 and it's fossilised mineral carrier has many benefits - in the way it protects all living organisms both in and out of water or the human body.The fossilised mineral containing C60 (shungite) also transforms harmful random radio waves into non-harmful longitudinal waves.
https://forum.davidicke.com/showpost...5&postcount=39

Fullerenes
https://forum.davidicke.com/showpost...2&postcount=51

Since C60 is too small to even be seen by the naked eye it cannot be sold or purchased as such.
It may come contained within
Powder - Shungite powder or soot from open flaming coal fire
Fossilised mineral - Shungite rock
Contained in water - in which case the water will be bubbling from sources contained in each glass of that water. The bubbling will not cease.
There is no other way I know of transporting it, so beware of anyone offering something else.
Use only NATURAL C60 for health benefits.
AVOID anything using nanotechnology as it may have an agenda that you would not like to even know about.

Last edited by grimstock; 26-11-2017 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 05-12-2017, 08:45 PM   #13
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AC FILTERS

Details of studies carried out on activated carbon filtration systems for drinking water.
These mainly deal however with contaminated water from a public source, but nevertheless are relevant to freshwater filtration where any possible contamination of rainwater may have occurred.
It is always preferable to have a system that can be trusted to supply safe drinking water that is able to cope with most eventualities.


Drinking Water Treatment:
Activated Carbon Filtration

http://extensionpublications.unl.edu.../pdf/g1489.pdf

HOME WATER TREATMENT USING
USING ACTIVATED CARBON

http://www.baycounty-mi.gov/Docs/Cit...atedCarbon.pdf

Activated Carbon Treatment of Drinking Water
http://waterquality.cce.cornell.edu/...rbonWtrTrt.pdf

It should also be noted that AC filters that have become near to full capacity will start leaching contaminants into fresh water, so must be changed regularly. As stated at top of page, the AC filter system I have recommended there should last for around five years under normal circumstances, before filter change is necessary (providing effective pre-filtration of particles and sediment has been in place at all times). Replacement of the activated carbon will possibly cost around £20 or so. The ceramic bio rings present in the filter can be replaced for much less cost, but replacement is not necessary as they will last a lifetime and will be more effective where bacteria is kept wet until replacing in the filter box. Only clean them if they are dirty - good bacteria will also present as a black growth. If they carry small amounts of green algae they are also healthy - so you may re-use them.

Last edited by grimstock; 05-12-2017 at 09:27 PM.
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