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Old 16-10-2018, 08:58 AM   #21
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If anyone has any questions, or tips to offer, then feel free to comment, as there may be others with similar concerns.

Last edited by grimstock; 16-10-2018 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 16-10-2018, 05:56 PM   #22
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DISCLAIMER:

This information is intended as guidelines only, and cannot possibly touch on every single problem any particular installation by others may pose. Similarly, the planning, design and system specifications are down to you. I can offer no guarantee or assurance that any such system is entirely adequate when I have neither seen it, nor the particular site used.

Therefore all responsibility for such system is down to you, and similarly, what you intend to use the water for is your decision and nobody else's, and it will be your decision whether or not the water is adequate for the purpose intended. The system must be regarded as standalone waste water to avoid regulatory compliance.

Let common sense and good judgement prevail over all aspects from the siteing, planning, design, specs., through to the drawing point.

Avoid having a water collection area (roof) where toxic deposits are going to be regularly dumped, such as in the vicinity of a slow burner stove outlet or charcoal burner/regular BBQ, etc., and even heavy traffic. Although the AC filter will handle most adequately, it will not be able to manage for a reasonable period if this is regular dumping.
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Old 16-10-2018, 06:08 PM   #23
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FLOW RATE:

Aim for an absolute maximum flow in heavy rain, of around 200 litres per hour, in order for the filters to be adequate.

This may be achieved through the use of 1" piping or even 22mm plumbing pipes that can enable 22mm compression speedfit joints to be used (slightly more expensive, but meaning that sections can be unfastened and replaced by hand with no tools (except where the compression fittings are). HDPE cold waste water pipes are perfectly safe for cold water.
A gradient of around 6 inches drop per metre should be adequate for this flow rate, and there will be lots of spare room in the piping for any trapped air to escape.
Any piping with a diameter of over one inch internally or larger will therefore be of no further benefit, unless being used to increase flow rate by "backing-up" water to be processed. I would recommend one of these near to the diverter, to prevent continual redirection of water to some degree. You decide what piping suits your system.
The cheapest may make common sense at first, until all redesigning and alterations have taken place where necessary.

Last edited by grimstock; 16-10-2018 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 16-10-2018, 06:38 PM   #24
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DOWNPIPE CONNECTION:

You will have to remove a small section of the downpipe for the rainwater diverter.
Instructions should be with the item.
You will also need to be able to slide the lower section of the downpipe downwards to remove the diverter, and back into place to secure it.
For ease of service obtain a downpipe connector if you need to have the system disconnected for any length of time. This will reinstall the original downpipe function where the pipe has been cut, until you are ready to replace the diverter.
Obviously, it needs to be the size and shape of your downpipe. This acts as a funnel for connection of the upper and lower pipes when no rain diverter is present.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Primaflow-9...pipe+connector

Last edited by grimstock; 16-10-2018 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 16-10-2018, 06:56 PM   #25
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GERMAN PARTICLE FILTERS? - WHY?

Because the cartridges are lifelong and reusable, and can be easily cleaned.
The very first particle filter in the system is the one that will need cleaning most - the one by the diverter.
If you are prepared to buy a new cartridge every week or two for this one filter alone, then fine, but it will need cleaning regular.
There may be one or two British reusable filters that are available, but the German one is both cheaper and more heavy duty than any of the competition.

Occasionally these filters may be found in Lidl for £7.99 or so with full guarantee, but under a different brand name. They are usually sold as universal water particle filters (wasserpartikelfilter). Regardless of the brand name they are all of the same quality and build. The inlet/outlet ports are standard 1" BSP size, which in German is stated as 33.3mm.
BSP sizeing carries two types of thread available - both straight (parallel) and tapered. Unless tapered is specified, always use the straight version, BSPP (Britsh Standard Pipe Parallel)
https://www.pyromation.com/Downloads...read_Chart.pdf
http://www.irrigationwarehouse.com.a...SP%20Chart.pdf
http://www.pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/...tification.pdf

By using BSP specification fittings, you will be assured that you can fit different systems fittings together into one as necessary, for example domestic fitting - to agricultural fitting - to water supply fitting - back to domestic, etc.

Lidl Florabest Water Particle Filter Instructions (in German/French/ Dutch/Italian)
https://www.gebruikershandleiding.co...html?page=0002

Last edited by grimstock; 17-10-2018 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 18-10-2018, 08:22 AM   #26
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Problems that you may have with water collection:

Stones entering system
- The recommended particle filter can cope without problem. The mesh filter is armoured.

Rain coming from asbestos roof: - No problem unless fresh intrusion/damage is/has been made upon the asbestos.

Lots of bird poop: - Not a problem for the recommended system. Neither for particle nor AC and maifan filters, any disease-carrying water will be neutralised before reaching the tanks. But regularly clean the initial particle filters (prior to the AC filter box) and others too when needed. The particle filters have transparent housing, so the dirt is visible without disconnection. To ease this problem, carry out cleaning of the (lowest only) guttering when necessary. Always use protective gloves when handling dirty filters or guttering. Do not let any cleaning water enter the system - disconnect diverter when gutter cleaning is taking place.

Flooding of system due to blockage: - This may occasionally occur during heavy rain, and although possibly compromising the AC/ Maifan filters for the period involved (until you fix the problem) the shungite and bacteria in the tanks together with the tank sump filtering will cope sufficiently against any temporary loss of water pre-filtering being present. The particle filters cannot be bypassed even if the internal system is flooded. Cause will normally be due to a dirty particle filter.

Carry out water quality testing if in doubt.

Last edited by grimstock; 19-10-2018 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 19-10-2018, 07:23 PM   #27
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BSP fitting ball valves

Various sizes and fitting options available.

These will provide good service outdoors for system shut-off by diverter, and for isolation of tanks where multiple tanks are used. (The 1" bsp size male fitting will fasten inside the particle filter female inlet or outlet port).
The long-handled brass fittings are ideal - water one is usually red.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...valve&_sacat=0

Last edited by grimstock; 20-10-2018 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 19-10-2018, 07:45 PM   #28
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Connecting diverter tubing to an inlet port of the particle filter, or to a port on a 1" bsp female ball valve fitting can utilise the same brass compression fitting..

the thread that this will fit onto by hand is 22mm brass compression fitting thread.
For example if fitting directly to one of the Einhell filters, use a 1" bsp male to 22mm compression fitting, and discard the nut and olive from the 22mm side. No fastening is needed, it will just screw into the rubber., and leave it hand-tight for servicing/ cleaning tubing. It will also pull off diverter for cleaning ( no fastening necessary.)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...ting+&_sacat=0

Leave the connector hand tight in the particle filter/ball valve. It will not leak.
To remove for cleaning, first pull rubber tube from the diverter down and off, then unscrew
the brass fitting from the inlet port of the filter/ball valve. No spanner needed. Do not remove the rubber tube from the brass fitting. Leave them fastened together.

Use PTFE tape on the brass thread of the fitting where it screws into the 1" BSP port:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...+tape&_sacat=0
Always use this tape where you have a screw fitting on the piping. (apply it in the same way as a nut screwing onto the thread)

Try to avoid using elbows anywhere in the system, apart from breather tubing/overfow/ or with filter boxes, as they will impede the water flow otherwise.

Last edited by grimstock; 20-10-2018 at 06:35 AM.
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Old 19-10-2018, 08:41 PM   #29
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If the Flow Rate is too High
Then regulate flow with long-handled ball valve. (No need to make alterations to the system)

Flow Rate does not need Monitoring:
If the guttering to be used is terminating on the ground floor roof, with a small drop to the rainwater diverter, then in that scenario, you do not need to worry about flow rate, as the recommended system will cope with anything the diverter may transfer to it regardless of gradient used (unless tank is underground)

If unsure, then just test the tubing from the diverter during heavy rain by letting it flow into a 10 litre bucket to get some idea. Approximately 2 minutes or more to fill the bucket is fine, as the flow rate will be much less anyway once the water is navigating the system. A little bit less than two minutes is also fine just for heavy rain alone. The sump filters ensure that water will not be released from filtering too soon.

Only when flow rate is too low, then problems with the system need to be identified.

Last edited by grimstock; 20-10-2018 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 20-10-2018, 06:13 PM   #30
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Here's what's in your bottled water (Marketplace)(from Canada)

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Old 20-10-2018, 07:30 PM   #31
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Surprisingly, (or perhaps not) there do not appear to be any videos on water quality testing of bottled water on you tube.

The only ones available are ph - this means little (water is always 7 to 7.5, unless there is something amiss). Adding bicarbonates will increase the ph value of any water.

TDS testing (means nothing whatsoever) and only applies to distilled. But people testing mineral water for ppm. - Well of course there are going to be minerals in it! TDS cannot differentiate from good or bad content, and can thus only indicate "content". In this respect it is virtually useless unless you are seeking the best distilled water possible.
https://tappwater.co/en/tds-poor-measure-water-quality/

Distilled tap water is never 100% clear of metals and toxins.

However basic testing may be carried out by pond/aquarium testing strips - or for oxygen levels, you need to buy a chemical testing kit which is rather more expensive, and usually unnecessary. Provided the water can breathe, (and in a pond using oxygenating plants and duckweed) oxygen content should be fine.

Last edited by grimstock; 21-10-2018 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 22-10-2018, 03:59 PM   #32
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Scientists STUNNED as first-of-its-kind study reveals strong link between fluoridated water and ADHD

https://forum.davidicke.com/showthread.php?t=323031

Last edited by grimstock; 23-10-2018 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 25-10-2018, 01:34 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grimstock View Post
Connecting diverter tubing to an inlet port of the particle filter, or to a port on a 1" bsp female ball valve fitting can utilise the same brass compression fitting..

the thread that this will fit onto by hand is 22mm brass compression fitting thread.
For example if fitting directly to one of the Einhell filters, use a 1" bsp male to 22mm compression fitting, and discard the nut and olive from the 22mm side. No fastening is needed, it will just screw into the rubber., and leave it hand-tight for servicing/ cleaning tubing. It will also pull off diverter for cleaning ( no fastening necessary.)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...ting+&_sacat=0

Leave the connector hand tight in the particle filter/ball valve. It will not leak.
To remove for cleaning, first pull rubber tube from the diverter down and off, then unscrew
the brass fitting from the inlet port of the filter/ball valve. No spanner needed. Do not remove the rubber tube from the brass fitting. Leave them fastened together.

Use PTFE tape on the brass thread of the fitting where it screws into the 1" BSP port:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...+tape&_sacat=0
Always use this tape where you have a screw fitting on the piping. (apply it in the same way as a nut screwing onto the thread)

Try to avoid using elbows anywhere in the system, apart from breather tubing/overfow/ or with filter boxes, as they will impede the water flow otherwise.
ERROR - Underlined "screwing onto" should read "unscrewing from"

Last edited by grimstock; 25-10-2018 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 25-10-2018, 01:37 PM   #34
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WHO YOU GONNA CALL WHEN THE GRID GOES DOWN? NOT GHOST BUTSTERS!!!!




You will not be able to purchase the parts needed, nor access any information once the grid goes down.

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Old 25-10-2018, 05:42 PM   #35
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WEATHER... & WATER... WEAPONIZED.

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Old 25-10-2018, 09:28 PM   #36
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Exclamation My father has done it since 1 July 1999, so has my mother since 1994

Quote:
Originally Posted by grimstock View Post
For rainwater harvesting, and doing it cheaply, I can recommend the Harcostar diverter for downpipes which can be cut to suit round or square pipes of popular size. It works very efficiently.
Alternatively, divert the guttering. You may require attachment to a downpipe no lower than around 2.5 metres from the ground for successful installation of this system.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Harcostar-H...star+rain+trap
These guidelines are intended for a standalone permanent off-grid survival system using natural distilled water (rainwater) to provide a high-quality end result, and are not intended for tap water.
For filtration and removal of toxic chemicals and heavy metals, use AC pellets (activated carbon) filter. No need to buy expensive cartridges, Stay off the grid and make your own. For good bacteria growth in the tanks and filters use ceramic bio rings. These and the activated carbon are used for fish tanks and are not expensive.(Do not use the plastic bio balls) use only ceramic. Do not use the carbon with deoderant - only the pure AC. Do not use zeolite.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...llets&_sacat=0
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...rings&_sacat=0

Note that the water tank will become exceptionally heavy when full, and should therefore be on solid ground, raised blocks(not plastic) at a sufficient height to allow drawing of water. When fitting taps or connectors to the tank, use the supplied rubber seal on the inside of the tank. Make sure everything is right before use, as you will have to lose all the saved water to repair or amend. If connecting several tanks together, make the connections on the lower part of the tanks and not at the top. This will give unity throughout the system. A good point to use would be at or just below tap height. If using more than one tank, fit stopcock valves on the connecting pipes to enable isolation of the one being serviced to prevent losing all your water.
Most important: fit the tap no lower than one third of the height of the tank to protect the bacteria and nutrients, and to ensure any large-scale loss of fullerenes does not occur - That is if the tank is one and a hafl metres high, fit the tap no lower than 0.5 metres from the bottom.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...+butt&_sacat=0
Use a particle filter to remove rubbish and sludge prior to the water entering the system. These are available on the German ebay site and are a 5 inch filter with 1"bsp connectors with washable filters. They are sometimes also available in lidl for around £8. Personally, I would recommend at least two connected in series as a starting point. These will not restrict the flow, although you may install finer filtering if you wish. Any particle filters will do the job. Regularly clean the guttering to prevent early blockage of the particle filters.
https://www.amazon.de/Einhell-417380...partikelfilter

As the system will be gravity-fed, do not use reverse osmosis filters - these will stop the flow, and are only for pressurised systems. Do not use "nano" plastic rings.

If the AC filter appears to be getting dirty (it should not),then add more particle filters to the system. I would certainly recommend two particle filters connected in series to begin with. They will always reqiire regular cleaning.,The filter box should ideally remain clean inside all the time, maybe a little bit of algae and bacteria, but not much else.
For water tanks, preferably purchase once used orange juice transporter tanks, (do not use tanks used for olives, as they will taint the water) much cheaper than new, and foodsafe, and come in many sizes up to several thousand litres. Avoid transparent or opaque (or IBC) tanks as these will require regular replacement due to algae growth if using in sunlight, although they can be painted to avoid this. For filter boxes to take the water before running off to the tank, do not buy new, use a new plastic toolbox with an upper tray. Fit tank connectors onto the lid and half way (or more) up the side for inlet and outlet, and drill a few holes in the sides of the upper tray so it will not overflow. If it has a hole in the middle, drill the holes there. Obviously, the deeper the water levels in both the tray and the sump, the better the filtering will be. Ensure tank and toolbox plastics are foodsafe by checking the material used here:
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/whi...-are-safe.html
http://modernsurvivalblog.com/preps/...ood-and-drink/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...+tray&_sacat=0

Use both the upper tray and the lower box for filtration, and this should not require filter replacement for several years, and then , just change the AC pellets, keep the ceramic bio rings (you can clean them first if you wish) and recharge with new carbon.
The toolbox will now provide a streaming filter on the upper tray, before the water drops down into a sump filter before being fed to the water tank. You may have to cover the toolbox to prevent degeneration from sunlight depending on the plastic used.
The tank should never require servicing or cleansing. let the bacteria grow. Keep some bio rings in the tank. The tank (and filter(s)) must be able to breathe! A very fine mesh media bag may be put over breathers to prevent insect penetration.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...s&_sacat=46310
After around two weeks, the water will start to be noticeably superior to anything sold in the shops.

To neutralise radioactive contaminated rainwater, add on a similar filtration system with a maifan filter, following the AC filter. This will remove any heavy metal ions from the water not picked up by the AC filter. In addition it will, like the shungite, release only highly beneficial elements into the water at the same time. Fullerenes, when present, will also detect and capture/ transform radioactive gases in the water, but it is a little unclear as to the protection from radioactive gases contained in rain water by the AC and Maifan filters, so I hope to have a quick-fix intermediate remedy for this in the near future, in order to remove any chance of this gas surviving the above system, and to doubly-ensure removal occurs, prior to the presence of fullerenes.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Filters/4...40&_nkw=maifan

To provide hydrogen water add some soot from a pure coal fire to the tank (very little is needed), and wait for several freeze-ups to occur, then wait for the tank to thaw. The water will become charged with additional oxygen, and bubbles like champagne when activated. (This can take a few years)
To add all the healthy minerals you could possible need to the water, and removal of any other harmful poison, place natural classical shungite chips and dust into the tank (do not wash the dust off).
Other additions, such as you may require (salts or bicarbonates, etc.) may be added via the filter box.

Only when fullerenes are present will the water be additionally self-cleansing and act as healing water (hydrogen water). Fullerenes can be released into the water from soot or shungite. Activation comes with (natural) freezing.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fullerene
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To render outdoor pond freshwater safe, use oxygenating plants, and most importantly, duckweed, which can also be harvested as greens in hot sunny weather. keep the duckweed at approximately 40 to 60 per cent coverage all the time if possible. You may also use any of the bio media mentioned above, should you feel the need. To reduce algae growth, float some barley straw logs in the pond. they will need either water flow or wind to work. If the algae is not troublesome - just a small amount does no harm. It is a sign of good quality water. The logs should last between 6 weeks and 6 months, as it is only when they rot they block the algae growth. Remove these when they are visibly rotten, as this will then be detrimental to water quality.
My father has done it since 1 th July 1999, so has my mother since 1 th August 1994.

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Old 26-10-2018, 06:43 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aronia View Post
My father has done it since 1 th July 1999, so has my mother since 1 th August 1994.
They must be healthy!
What systems do they use aronia?
Do you know if either managed to grow C60 water?

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Old 17-01-2019, 08:47 PM   #38
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Black Goo

(Quote)
"Recently the massive influx of Cosmic Rays and intergalactic plasma gases into the earth core and Polar Regions, along with the alien attempt to harvest and collect this new incoming energy source, has revealed the deeper purpose of Black Goo. The massive plasma gas transmissions are shifting the dark matter template in the earth at the elemental level. This is being observed as transforming carbon allotropes that are present in fullerenes or Buckyballs. Carbon allotropes such as fullerenes are solids in normal conditions, but are changing their state of matter into liquids at subatomic scale from the massive amount of recent plasma gas exposure. A fullerene is a molecule of carbon in the form of a hollow sphere, ellipsoid, tube, and many other shapes. Spherical fullerenes are also called Buckyballs.

The Dark Matter Template is the anti-matter instruction set of the planetary body, and it has been filled in certain areas with this Alien sourced Black Goo. It was programmed into the dark matter template of the Albion Body and appears to have had its point of entry into earth around the time of the Nephilim Wars. This "alien black goo", acts as a faux synthetic artificial intelligence elemental that mimics and controls carbon allotropes and how they function in the dodecahedron structures on earth. It is clearly how the Negatives have been accessing carbon elements to control matter forms, including control over genetic expression of the human body. This programmable Alien AI has infected carbon material and is what has taken over the platonic solid Dodecahedron and related pentagonal geometries that build time space constructs. These time space constructs are instruction sets in the morphogenetic field that run into the Ley Lines of the planetary body. This is how they have built artificial realities and false Timelines and projected them into false holograms. The spherical fullerene has something to do with the AI control over carbon-based matter at the molecular level that can control genetic expression.

Recent observation of the Black Goo in the lower elemental dimensions of the geologic shelf noted the buckyballs warping into strangely distorted and stretched out shapes when exposed to the recent transmissions of Auroras and liquid plasma gas. Observing these contaminated honeycombed structures and Buckyballs was revolting, as this alien black goo was writhing around in death throes. The reaction it had to the Aurora plasma was similar to burning it with acid. It has survival intelligence and was aware of its demise. This is not related to organic human consciousness, but to carbon molecules that appear to have alien artificial intelligence programmed into them. It was made to mimic and take over carbon atoms.

This leads me to believe that this event is related to the rise of insanity in 3D people (and lower) carbon life forms, that may have partially bonded to this black goo in their DNA. Bonding DNA to the Black Goo is directly related to embodying the artificial intelligent alien machinery and being subjected to severe mind control like an automaton or robot. This is related to current purging of AI intelligence and Satanic forces that are very aggressive lately. This is surfacing now in order for us to understand and see what it is. Starseeds, when we stay in our heart we are capable of holding anchor for the highest frequency levels of the liquid plasma of our Cosmic Christ Consciousness, and thus, destroying this alien black goo without violence. This new understanding of the function of Alien Black Goo in the dark matter template, and how it has infected the Albion body, gives us deeper revelations into the importance and purpose of the Aurora Krystal Matrix Re-Encryption of Elemental Body earth mission.[1]"

https://ascensionglossary.com/index.php/Black_Goo

So it would appear that fullerenes can trap and destroy any elemental attack upon carbon life forms, using onboard elements as I see it. Although I cannot confirm the accuracy of the above report, it does confirm my previous findings in regard to C60+, and indicates that it is essential for C60 to stay insoluble at all times as all onboard and unsafe elements are retained until rendered safe, or never released, meaning that it is harmless if used in drinking water..

Last edited by grimstock; 18-01-2019 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 18-01-2019, 07:51 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grimstock View Post
Problems that you may have with water collection:

Stones entering system
- The recommended particle filter can cope without problem. The mesh filter is armoured.

Rain coming from asbestos roof: - No problem unless fresh intrusion/damage is/has been made upon the asbestos.

Lots of bird poop: - Not a problem for the recommended system. Neither for particle nor AC and maifan filters, any disease-carrying water will be neutralised before reaching the tanks. But regularly clean the initial particle filters (prior to the AC filter box) and others too when needed. The particle filters have transparent housing, so the dirt is visible without disconnection. To ease this problem, carry out cleaning of the (lowest only) guttering when necessary. Always use protective gloves when handling dirty filters or guttering. Do not let any cleaning water enter the system - disconnect diverter when gutter cleaning is taking place.

Flooding of system due to blockage: - This may occasionally occur during heavy rain, and although possibly compromising the AC/ Maifan filters for the period involved (until you fix the problem) the shungite and bacteria in the tanks together with the tank sump filtering will cope sufficiently against any temporary loss of water pre-filtering being present. The particle filters cannot be bypassed even if the internal system is flooded. Cause will normally be due to a dirty particle filter.

Carry out water quality testing if in doubt.
Another cause of problems may be during exceptionally heavy rainfall, where the flow cannot speed up due to the gentle gradient used; this will appear as overflowing of the filter boxes. In this scenario the rushing water is being slowed down to a proper pace for correct filtering, leading to the overflow in the filter boxes.
To rectify this problem adjust the system shut-down ball valve to a smaller gap to prevent overflowing the system, until the heavy rainfall recedes.

Last edited by grimstock; 18-01-2019 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 27-01-2019, 05:16 PM   #40
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Miracle Healing Water (research)

Inhibition of Water Activated by Far Infrared Functional Ceramics on Proliferation of Hepatoma Cells

"Rare earth (RE)/tourmaline composite materials prepared by the precipitation method are added to the ceramic raw materials at a certain percentage and sintered into RE functional ceramics with high far infrared emission features. Then the far infrared functional ceramics are used to interact with water. The influence of the ceramics on the physical parameters of water is investigated, and the effect of the activated water on the growth of Bel-7402 hepatoma cells cultured in vitro is further studied. The results indicate that, compared with the raw water, the water activated by the ceramics can inhibit the proliferation of hepatoma cells, with statistical probability P < 0.01, which means that the effect is significant. It can be explained that the water activated by the ceramics has a higher concentration of H+, which decreases the potential difference across the cell membrane to release the apoptosis inducing factor (AIF). After entering the cells, the activated water stimulates the mitochondria to produce immune substances that lead tumor cells to apoptosis."

https://www.ingentaconnect.com/conte...00005/art00102

I shall have this method under trial within a few weeks. This is the only manual method of self-ionisation that can possibly activate C60. I am quite hopeful of the results. However, the result is dependent on the quality and availability of the C60, and that is an unknown factor unless/until first activated; and also the purity of the water at start, as I have only ever previously succeeded with unfiltered rainwater and natural activation. Nevertheless the above tests were carried out with just water without any known C60 content, so that raises hopes very much. Unfortunately they do not state the water source.
It may alternatively have to be cultured in unfiltered water prior to filtering - we shall see. that could cause a long delay in the test if so.
The Mechanism Explained:
Once activated, the improvements to the quality, taste and purity of the water will come fast. Any impurities in the water are then captured and transformed or detained by the insoluble natural activated C60, including radioactive elements and gases. Beneficial elements only are released into the water at the same time. The active cleansing and release of beneficial elements continues at all times once inside the human body, until the C60 is at capacity, and/or released by the bowels. This is not to be confused with the synthesised soluble "C60" on sale in shops, which has no specific properties.

Last edited by grimstock; 27-01-2019 at 07:59 PM.
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